Has your washing machine quit functioning properly? If you’re an avid DIYer, you may want to diagnose and fix the problem yourself. Here’s your in-depth guide!

Has your washing machine stopped functioning properly?

If so, you may be thinking to yourself:

“You know what? I can probably fix this thing (with the help of some handy elbow grease and a YouTube video or two, of course).”

Well, here’s the good news.

If you’re inclined towards DIY repairs, then it might actually work to your advantage to at least attempt to diagnose and fix the problem yourself. 

The only downside to this is that a failed repair attempt can sometimes cost you a lot more than you bargained for (it can void your warranty, for example, but it can also lead to further unintended damage if not orchestrated properly).

Thus, in this comprehensive guide, we’re going to provide you with step-by-step troubleshooting tips to help you identify and resolve common issues that may arise with your washing machine.

We’re also going to let you know which projects might actually be even too much for an avid DIYer like yourself to handle—and offer some guidance on when it may be time to pick up the phone and call for help.

Let’s dive in and get your washer up and running again!

Problem: Leakage

Before proceeding with any leak-oriented repairs, it’s crucial to understand where and when the leakage is occurring. So make sure to find that first, as it’ll tell you a lot about how to diagnose the problem. This will, in turn, help you to apply the appropriate solution.

Possible Causes And Solutions

1. Water Housing

The water housing is always located at the top, at the back behind the main panel.

Diagnosing the problem: Inspect the water housing, which connects the water supply hoses to the washing machine. Look for any signs of cracks, loose connections, or damaged fittings.

2. Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve is always located at the top of the washing machine.

Diagnosing the problem: Check the water inlet valve for any cracks, signs of leaks, or disconnected hoses.

3. Damaged Drain Housing and Drain Pump

To diagnose this problem, you’ll need to fully disassemble the unit (unless it’s an exterior issue, such as a damaged drain hose from the washer into the wall, etc.).

If your washer doesn’t leak during filling, agitating, or the spinning cycle, and it leaks ONLY during the drain cycle, there’s a good chance you have one of the following problems:

• Faulty interior or exterior housing
• Faulty drain housing assembly
• Faulty drain pump
• Faulty drain filter housing assembly

Diagnosing the problem: First, inspect the filter housing and make sure it’s not clogged causing water to overflow. Further diagnostics require disassembly of the unit: check for any loose connections, cracks, or damage from drum to drain pump.

4. Damaged Door Seal (Front Load Washers)

The door seal on a front load washer is located around the door opening. It’s basically a rubber gasket that creates a watertight seal between the door and the washing machine’s drum. This prevents water from leaking out of the washing machine during the wash cycle.

Diagnosing the problem: First, check for visible damage. Second, the rubber seal must always be clean. Even if a piece of hair is stuck between the door and the seal, it’ll leak. So clean the seal until it’s squeaky clean first.

5. Damaged Main Seal And/Or Damaged Transmission (Top Load Washers)

The main seal on a top-load washer is located at the bottom of the drum, around the agitator. It’s a rubber gasket that creates a watertight seal between the drum and the outer tub.

The transmission on a top-load washing machine is located at the bottom of the machine, near the back. It is a complex system of gears and belts that transfers power from the motor to the agitator.

Diagnosing the problem: If you can’t find the exact spot of the leakage, but it still leaks, then most likely the seal has softened up over time—and that’s where the leak is coming from.

If the spinning cycle is followed by any grinding noise, and if there’s oil on the floor, then the transmission is definitely bad.

If the transmission is bad, it’s a rule of thumb to replace both the transmission and the seal.

Problem: Not Draining Properly

Possible Causes And Solutions

1. Faulty Drain Pump

The drain pump on a washing machine is typically located at the bottom of the machine, near the back. It’s a small, cylindrical device that is responsible for draining water from the washing machine after the wash cycle is complete.

Diagnosing the problem: If your washing machine is not draining properly, a faulty drain pump could be the culprit. Listen for any unusual noises coming from the pump or check for signs of damage.

2. Clogged Drain Pump and Filter Housing

The filter housing is located at the front, at the bottom of the washer. Some brands have the filter installed in the interior of the washer, so maintaining it will require disassembly of the unit.

The drain pump filter is responsible for catching lint, hair, and other debris that can build up in the washing machine’s drain hose.

Diagnosing the problem: A clogged drain pump or filter housing can hinder proper drainage. Look for debris, lint, or foreign objects that may be obstructing the pump or filter.

3. Clogged Drain Housing

The drain housing is typically located at the bottom of the washing machine, near the back. It’s a cylindrical device that houses the drain pump and filter.

Diagnosing the problem: If the drain housing is clogged, it can impede the flow of water and prevent proper drainage. Check for any obstructions or buildup within the drain housing.

4. Clogged Main Drain (In the Wall)

This actually isn’t a ‘washing machine’ issue. It’s a plumbing issue!

Diagnosing the problem: If the washing machine is not draining properly and all other components seem to be functioning correctly, a clogged main drain in the wall might be the issue. Look for signs of water backing up or slow drainage in other plumbing fixtures connected to the same drain line.

Problem: The Washer Isn’t Getting water

Possible Causes And Solutions

1. Faulty Plumbing — Weak Pressure From Water Housing

Your washing machine needs water pressure to work correctly. And if it doesn’t get it—you’ll definitely notice, as your laundry will seem ‘dry,’ even after a full cycle.

Diagnosing the problem: Check the water supply hoses and the water housing for any kinks, obstructions, or weak water pressure.

2. Faulty Water Valve

The water valve is located at the back of the washer, behind the front panel. If the water pressure from the wall is good, but there’s no incoming water, then most likely the water inlet valve is faulty.

Diagnosing the problem: Inspect the water valve for any signs of damage or malfunction. Test whether the valve is opening and closing properly to allow water flow.

3. Faulty Pressure Switch

The pressure switch in a washing machine is typically located near the top or side of the machine’s cabinet, depending on the specific model and design. It’s a small round or rectangular component with electrical connectors or wiring attached to it. It’s commonly made of plastic, and may have an adjustable dial or knob for setting the water level or pressure sensitivity.

Diagnosing the problem: The pressure switch monitors the water level inside the washer. If it is faulty, it may not detect the water level accurately, leading to a lack of water or overflow.

4. Faulty Dispenser Motor (Front Load Washers)

The dispenser motor is situated inside the detergent dispenser drawer compartment, which is usually located on the front top panel of the washing machine. It’s a small, electric motor that’s responsible for controlling the movement and dispensing of the detergent, fabric softener, or other additives during the wash cycle.

Diagnosing the problem: In front load washers, a faulty dispenser motor may prevent water from being dispensed into the machine.

5. Faulty Control Board — No Power to the Water-Pouring Elements

The control board, also known as an electronic control module, is an essential component within a washing machine responsible for overseeing and regulating its various functions. Positioned within the washing machine’s cabinet, generally towards the upper portion, it serves as an internal electronic circuit board.

Diagnosing the problem: If there is no power reaching the water-pouring elements, the control board may be faulty.

Problem: Won’t spin or agitate (wash)

Possible Causes And Solutions

1. Faulty Belt (Both Front and Top Load Washers)

The location of the belt on a washing machine can vary depending on the specific make and model. However, in most top-load washers, the belt is typically located at the bottom of the machine, underneath the drum or agitator. In some front-load washers, the belt may be positioned at the back of the machine.

Diagnosing the problem: Inspect the belt for signs of damage, such as fraying, cracking, or slipping off the pulleys. Check if the motor is running but the drum or agitator isn’t moving.

2. Faulty Actuator (Top Load Washers)

The actuator is usually positioned on the bottom of the washer, near the motor and the drive system. It’s a small, rectangular-shaped component with electrical connectors or wiring attached to it. It’s commonly made of plastic or metal, and may have gears or mechanical components for engaging the motor and controlling the washer’s functions.

Diagnosing the problem: The actuator is responsible for shifting the washer’s transmission into different cycles, including agitation and spinning. If the actuator is faulty, the washer may not agitate or spin properly.

3. Faulty Motor-Stator (Both Front and Top Load Washers)

The motor-stator is situated at the rear of the washing machine, near the drum or agitator. It is positioned behind the tub or drum assembly. It’s a cylindrical or disc-shaped part made of metal, usually encased in a protective housing. The motor stator works in conjunction with the motor rotor to generate the necessary motion for the drum or agitator.

Diagnosing the problem: A malfunctioning motor-stator can prevent the drum or agitator from spinning properly. Listen for any unusual noises or vibrations during the wash cycle.

4. Faulty Transmission (Top Load Washer)

The transmission in a washing machine is typically located at the bottom of the machine, underneath the tub or drum. It’s a complex component that consists of multiple gears, belts, and pulleys all housed within a sturdy metal or plastic casing to protect the internal mechanisms.

Diagnosing the problem: If the washer fails to spin or agitate and other components are functioning correctly, a faulty transmission might be the issue. Signs may include unusual noises, leaking oil, or the drum not moving despite the motor running.

Problem: Noises

Possible Causes And Solutions

1. Metal Grinding (Top Load Washers) — Transmission

The transmission in a washing machine is typically located at the bottom of the machine, underneath the tub or drum. It’s a complex component that consists of multiple gears, belts, and pulleys all housed within a sturdy metal or plastic casing to protect the internal mechanisms.

Diagnosing the problem: If you hear a metal grinding noise during operation, it may indicate a problem with the transmission, especially if you experience any agitating or spinning issues.

2. Loud Roaring — Drain Pump

Diagnosing the problem: A loud roaring noise coming from the washer may be due to a faulty or worn-out drain pump, especially if followed by not draining.

Problem: The door won’t open

Possible Causes And Solutions

1. If There Are No Error Codes — Faulty Lid Lock or Door Latch

Diagnosing the problem: If there are no error codes displayed, a faulty lid lock or door latch could be preventing the door from opening.

2. If There Are Error Codes

Diagnosing the problem: If error codes are displayed, refer to the owner’s manual to understand the specific error and its corresponding solution. Error codes provide valuable information about the underlying issue.

Problem: Your Washing Machine Is off Balance

Possible Causes And Solutions

1. Your Washing Machine Isn’t Level

Diagnosing the problem: Check if your washing machine is properly leveled. An unlevel machine can cause an imbalance during the spin cycle.

2. Uneven Distribution of Laundry

Diagnosing the problem: If you overload or underload the washing machine, it can result in an unbalanced load during the spin cycle.

3. Worn or Damaged Suspension System

The suspension system can vary depending on the make and model of the washing machine. It may include a set of suspension rods or springs connected to the machine’s frame and drum assembly. In some washers, you may find a combination of shock absorbers and suspension springs.

Diagnosing the problem: A worn or damaged suspension system can contribute to an off-balance washing machine.

That’s a wrap!

Hopefully, this guide has given you everything required to dive into your DIY washing machine repair project.

And of course, if you reach a point where you believe that you might need some extra help or assistance, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

We’ve fixed thousands of washing machines, and we can definitely help you to diagnose yours and get it up and running in no time!

Need Professional Appliance Repair Help?

Viking ranges are some of the highest-quality cooking appliances on the market.

However, despite their good reputation and high-quality construction, they’re still prone to a range of common issues.

In many cases, inspecting your Viking range will allow you to locate the source of your problem.

And if you’re able to do this, you’ll either be able to replace or fix the problem on your own. Or, you’ll make our job easier by being able to tell us exactly what’s wrong with your Viking range.

Either way, if you’re having trouble with your Viking range and need help figuring it out, don’t hesitate to contact us today. We’re here to help!